There is some confusion about the differences in Mopar transmissions from '63 to '64 to '65, and the corresponding problems with cables and valve bodies. I scanned in the text and photos from the 1964 Technical bulletin to Dodge dealerships, which details changes in the Torqueflite automatic from '63 to '64.
All 1964 model Torqueflites, both for 6-cylinder and 8-cylinder engines, have a new internal oil filter. The oil screen assembly has been redesigned to contain a sheet of Dacron felt, over two layers of perforated steel. The filter assembly is installed on the transfer plate with three slotted head screws, in the same manner as the previous screen assembly. This change necessitated no change in the valve body or in the transfer plate. The new filter is thicker than the screen assembly it replaces, so a well is stamped in the oil pan to compensate for the increased thickness. The factory fill of oil, and the filter, should be good for the life of the vehicle in normal operation. In heavy duty operation at 32,OOO-mile intervals, and in extreme heavy duty operations at lO,OOO-mile intervals the fluid and the filter should be replaced.
Diagnosis - If the filter becomes clogged, the condition will first become evident in excessive delay in obtaining reverse drive. Some delay is normal when the oil is cold, but when the transmission is warmed up to normal operating temperature, there should be no noticeable delay in obtaining reverse.
This filter will do a more thorough job of excluding particles from the transmission hydraulic circuits than the previous
filter, because both the front and rear pumps draw through the filter, whereas only the oil passing through the torque
converter was filtered by the "T" Series, external, filter. Elimination of the external filter also eliminates two potential
leak points - the tubing connections at the filter.
TORQUEFLITE CONSOLE SHIFT
All Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth Console Models, whether equipped with automatic or manual transmissions, have gearshift
selector levers on the console. The A-727 Torqueflite shift lever, in console models, extends through a fore-and-aft slot in the console and is spring loaded to the right against a series of gates. There are six selective positions, reading from rear to front - Low (1), Second (2), Drive (d), Neutral (N), Reverse (R), and Park (P).
In addition to the gating provided along the top of the lever bracket, each of the six positions is detented.
The back-up light switch is mounted on the cable operating lever and is actuated by a hump on the side plate when the shift lever
is moved into reverse.
The valve body is modified, mostly in the area of the manual valve and the manual valve operating lever.
The valve, and its pressure passages in the valve body, has been modified to provide for the sixth (Park) selection.
The manual valve operating lever has six rather than five detents in its "Rooster Comb". It also has two "Fingers" so that the neutral safety switch is grounded in either "Neutral" or "Park" position.
The neutral safety switch in Console A-727 Torqueflites is in the same location as in other Torqueflites, but is of a new
design. It has a larger spring loaded nylon insulator plug with a pin-like metal contact in its center. The manual valve operating
lever must be precisely in Neutral or Park position before the starter circuit can be energized. As a matter of fact, difficulty
can be encountered when reinstalling a valve body in getting it aligned with the switch. Before tightening the ten valve body
retaining bolts, check to make sure that a "Finger" of the manual valve lever centers on the switch contact in "Neutral" or "Park".
The switch seal is a special design, unlike the cupped washer and O-ring seal used on other models. This is a one-piece seal,
consisting of a cupped aluminum washer entirely coated with Butyl rubber.
The switch and seal are installed by merely positioning the seal on the switch and threading the switch into the transmission case, tightening to 20-30 foot-pounds. There is no adjustment other than observing the 20-30 foot-pound specification.
CONTROL CABLE ADJUSTMENTS
GEAR SELECTOR CABLE ADJUSTMENT
The gear selector cable is attached to the selector lever in much the same manner as with a push button box, with a cable eye over a pin, secured by a flat washer and spring clip.
The removal and installation procedures for the gear selector cable at the transmission are the same as those followed
with push button cables, but the adjustment procedure is different. To make this adjustment, proceed as follows:
1. Have an assistant hold the selector lever firmly in the "1" (Low) position.
2. Hold the control cable centered in its bore in the transmission case, and pull outward on the cable with about two
pounds of force to bottom the manual lever in the "Low" detent.
3. While maintaining this pull on the cable, rotate the adjustment wheel clockwise until it just contacts the case squarely.
4. Turn the wheel counterclockwise just enough to make the nearest hole in the wheel line up with the screw hole in the case.
5. Counting this hole as number one, continue turning the wheel counterclockwise until the fifth hole lines up with the screw hole in the case.
6. Push the cable in toward the transmission until the adjustment wheel is tight against the case and install the lock
screw, tightening to 75 inch-pounds torque.
PARKING LOCK CABLE (SELECTOR LEVER END)
The parking lock cable operating lever on the selector lever assembly rotates on a cammed pivot similar to the one on a
push button box. The position of the parking lock cable operating lever is adjusted, as part of the assembly procedure for the selector lever mechanism, to establish the correct amount of parking lock cable travel.
To make this adjustment, proceed as follows:
1. Place the selector lever in "Reverse" position, and loosen the cam jam nut on the pivot.
2. While sighting through the opening in the left plate of the shift mechanism housing, rotate the cammed pivot until the
scribed line on the gear selector cable control lever bisects the parking lock lever guide pin.
3. Hold the cammed pivot in this position and tighten the jam nut to 95 inch-pounds.
PARKING LOCK CABLE (TRANSMISSION END)
The procedures for parking lock cable removal, installation, and adjustment at the transmission end are the same as for
conventional Torqueflites.
THROTTLE LINKAGES
With the exception of Imperial Models, all 1963 throttle linkage systems are carried over into 1964. A cable throttle linkage will be used in Imperial, similar to the Plymouth and Dodge V-8 throttle linkage, and adjusted in the same manner.
CABLE ADAPTERS
Adapters and cables are not interchangeable between push button and console models. In console Torqueflites, the cable adapter contains a small overtravel spring and cup. Also, the lock spring groove in the cable end is wider than on push button cables.
The overtravel provision in console transmissions had to be made to accept the reverse-to-park travel of the cable after the manual valve is bottomed. The presence of the spring accounts for the change in shift cable adjustment at the transmission.
Adjusting Transmission Shift Cables
Method One
Before inserting the cable into the transmission, take out the neutral safety switch.
Look inside and there should be two "fingers" inside. They are shaped in a "V", not sure of the technical name.
Have an assistant hold the Neutral switch in.
Insert the cable until it hits one of these "fingers". Not hard, but touches. The "finger" should not move.
Adjust cable housing so it can be tightened without moving the "finger".
Re-insert Neutral safety switch.
Start the car and run through the gears. If it works fine, you are done; however, if it doesn't go to the next step.
Do the same process over again, this time hit the other "finger".
Re-adjust housing so it will tighten.
Thanks to Buck for the information!
Method Two
Summary: Disconnect the wire from the neutral safety switch then run an electrical tester from the battery, (the screwdriver looking type tester with the light bulb in the handle). Hold the metal tip of the electrical probe to the electrical contact on the neutral safety switch. Then adjust the cable for neutral. When the light in the electrical tester lights up the cable is in
neutral.
Specifics:
The principle is if the neutral switch is grounding out, via the neutral start switch, the starter motor will engage, because the relay goes to ground.
Disconnect the brown wire on the starter relay (it's the neutral switch wire). Also disconnect the other end of the same wire (attached to the threaded post on the neutral switch).
Now make a long "jumper" wire from a piece of wire in the 14 to 18 gauge range, and attach a male spade terminal to one end on the wire. Plug that spade terminal into the end of the brown wire that was attached to the starter relay. Hook up a "ice pick" type test light to the end of that same brown, neutral switch wire that is dangling under the car. That's the
end you removed from the neutral switch.
Now the jumper wire you made, attach to the positive cable on the battery.
Next, get under the car and remove the 7/16" head cap screw that's holding down the wheel adjuster on the transmission shift cable. Loosen the wheel by turning counter clockwise, until it's almost off the end of the cable.
Now with the test light pointer (ice pick type end)in one hand touch it to the threaded post on the neutral switch, while pulling, and pushing the cable in and out of the transmission case. When you're in the neutral position on the detent, the test light will light up, confirming you're in neutral.
Once the light is in a position where the light remains on, rotate the adjusting wheel on the shift cable clockwise until it is
against the transmission case. Now you may have to fine tune your adjustment. Usually by turning the adjuster left or right by 1 or 2 holes.
If it's not fine-tuned you end up with a mis-adjustment, for example, where you have to push in on the neutral button slightly.
It all sounds complicated, but all you're doing is using your neutral switch as an indicator, confirming the neutral position.
The method the factory uses in a service manual never worked for me, so I came up with this method. Give it a try. You can't mess up unless you ground out the hot end of that wire while it's attached to the battery.
After you're satisfied with your adjustment, remove the jumper wire, re-install the neutral switch wire, and re-install the small cap screw in the adjuster wheel.
Thanks to Jimmy P. for supplying this technique!
Bill writes: " I tried Jimmy's transmission cable adjustment yesterday on my console shift cable and it worked perfectly!"
November 20, 2002; Revised August 12, 2004; August 24, 2004
Also see Automatic Transmission Shift Cable Removal, Installation and/or Adjustment
Models: A11 1964 "V" Series Passenger Cars equipped with Automatic Transmission SERVICE BULLETIN
